MITERED TUNISIAN CROCHET SQUARE

 

I love Tunisian crochet (also known as the afghan stitch) – a cross between knitting and crochet, it makes very warm squares, and is relatively quick to do.   For this pattern, it is assumed that the crocheter has a working knowledge of Tunisian crochet.  (For instructions and many different stitch foundations, visit http://www.chezcrochet.com/page2.html .  There are also lots of YouTube videos out there, and many other websites that have detailed Tunisian stitch instructions).

 

This pattern is based on the Red Heart “Tunisian Mitered Throw” pattern WR1849, which can be found here, http://www.coatsandclark.com/NR/rdonlyres/496EB2BD-13D9-4097-8DCD-590DDCDFA215/124375/WR1849.pdf, modified to make an 8” square for Knit A Square.   I will add a step-by-step photo tutorial at my blog this weekend, which may make it easier to follow.  Once you get into the rhythm of the mitered square, it goes fast. J

 

Yarn:  Worsted Weight; variegated, ombre or striped yarn highlights the mitered pattern nicely

Hooks:  K/6.5MM Tunisian/Afghan crochet hook, or whatever size Tunisian hook you have, checking the size of the square made as individual tension varies. This pattern makes a smaller square initially, which is bordered by standard crochet to make the 8” size.

H or I crochet hook

Stitch marker

Yarn needle to weave in the tail, if the tail is not worked in during the construction of the square

 

SQUARE PATTERN

Row 1 Forward Pass: Chain 45, somewhat loosely. Place a marker on stitch 23, this will leave you 22 stitches on either side.  To form the first row of the Tunisian Simple Stitch (TSS), skip the first chain next to the hook, insert hook in the back of the second chain from hook, under the “camel hump,” YO and pull up a loop. *Insert hook in next stitch’s camel hump, YO and pull up a loop,* repeat across the chain to the end.  45 sts.

 

Row 1 Return:  YO, draw through the first loop, *YO and draw through 2 loops.* Repeat across until two loops remain to the left of the marker --  the loop on the hook that was pulled through the previous stitch, and the loop immediately to the left of the marker. YO and draw through 4 loops (the loop on the hook, the loop left of center marker, the center marker loop, and the loop right of  center marker), which makes the center cluster – the stitches form a triangle like this  /|\.  Move the marker to the middle vertical post of the center cluster; you will do this for each row made. *YO and draw through 2 loops,* repeat across to the end (21 times), leaving 1 loop on the hook. 43 sts.

 

(Do not turn – Tunisian is done with the work facing the front, with the first pass of the row picking up loops, and the return pass YO and drawing through loops 2 at a time.)

 

Row 2 Forward Pass: Working TSS, skip the end vertical bar. Hook under the next vertical bar, YO and pull up a loop. Pick up loops across the first half of the square until you reach the center cluster. Skipping the right bar of the center cluster, insert hook under middle vertical bar of the cluster and pick up a loop, skip the left bar of the center cluster, and resume picking up loops across to the last stitch. When picking up the final loop, place hook under front bar as well as back part of that loop to ensure a stable edge; the edge will form a chain stitch edge along the side of the square. 43 sts.

 

Row 2 Return: YO, draw through the first loop, *YO and draw through 2 loops.* Note: While working the return, you can work in the starting tail of your initial chain by moving the tail alternately to the front and to the back of the square, so it is caught under each return stitch made.  Repeat across until two loops remain to the left of the marker --  the loop on the hook and the loop immediately to the left of the marker. YO and draw through 4 loops (the loop on the hook, the loop left of center marker, the center marker loop, and the loop right of  center marker), which makes the center cluster.  Move the marker to the vertical post of the center cluster. YO and draw through 2 loops across to the end, leaving 1 loop on the hook. 41 sts.

 

Rows 3 through Row 21: Continue following the Row 2 Forward Pass and Row 2 Return pattern, which will reduce the row by two stitches every row after completing the return.

 

Note: If you find you have pulled through three loops by mistake instead of two loops on a return pass, no need to frog it—simply pull up a loop on each vertical bar as you make the next row, and it will correct itself.

 

Row 22 Forward Pass: TSS under marked st, TSS under both vertical bars of final st – 3 sts.

Row 22 Return: YO, draw through all 3 loops – 1 loop on hook.  The main part of the square is now finished.

 

CHECKING THE SIZE

Lay your square on an 8” square of cardboard to help determine the size of the border needed.  I start with one row of sc or hdc all around, then measure again. If a wider border is needed, I do a second row of hdc.  If a smaller width is still needed, I do a row of sc.

 

CROCHET BORDER

Switch to a crochet hook, size I (or H, depending on your own tension).

Border Row 1: Ch2. Hdc in same st (between stitches 2 & 3/the middle and right stitches of the row below). For the next stitch, hdc between stitches 1 & 2/the left and middle stitches of the row below,  then continue to hdc across to the corner. (I prefer hdc to dc because hdc is tighter and I hope won’t leak body heat, but use whatever stitch you prefer)

Note: If you haven’t woven in your starting tail either with a yarn needle or by working it into your TSS as you built the square, you can crochet over it now by holding it along the edge of your square and ensuring that you catch the tail as you crochet your border.

*Make 2 hdc in the corner, ch 2, 2hdc in same st, resume hdc down the next side.* Repeat two more times until you arrive back at the starting corner.

Make 2 hdc in the corner, ch 2 and join with sl st to top of starting ch if the square is already 8”, or join with dc if another row of border is needed to make the square 8”.

 

Lay your square on an 8” square of cardboard to see if you need an additional border row to meet the 8” size.  Repeat Border Row 1 with sc or hdc as needed, making 3 sc or hdc in each corner ch 2 space.  Smooth the square into shape, as the ending corner tends to stretch itself out a bit.

 

FINISHING OFF

Measure 36” of your working yarn, cut and tie off.  Loop the attaching yarn into a butterfly and wind closed with the tail.

 

The square will curl a bit at the edges, but once sewn into a blanket, it will lie flat.  To address the curl, you could crochet a TPS/Tunisian purl stitch row or two at the bottom as you are making the square, as well as a TPS border of three or four stitches at both the right and left edge to make a border.  Work the pattern as written, using TPS instead of TSS as needed for the border.

 

You can have fun with the pattern and mix it up by alternating different color stripes, or using different Tunisian stitches besides TSS – TPS/Tunisian purl stitch, TKS/Tunisian knit stitch, and others.  Have fun with it!

 

Feel free to contact me with any questions or problems! J

 

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Replies

  • thanks for all this info'. I might try out the pattern, will be interesting to see if I can remember the technique after over 30 years away from it.
    xx
    • I bet you can-- it's like riding a bike, you never forget! :-)
      • ah well, I never learned to ride a bike :))
        xx
        • Neither did I! :)

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